DAY 85: 8/16/02 BEAVER CREEK to PINE VALLEY / 55 mi / 1800' elev gain

Ken almost cried this morning when he heard the tick-tick-tick of raindrops on the tent. We decided it does no good to wait out the rain, so we got up. Everything was packed and the bikes parked under an awning while we ate 2 eggs, hashbrowns and toast for breakfast in the restaurant. Just as we headed out of town, Ken's bike suffered brake cable failure, but that was nothing. A guy in a motorhome across the street underestimated the size of his rig and the location of the gas station roof and the two collided. He ripped a hole in his motorhome and a piece of the roof off. Now, he was not having a good day. Ours could only get better as we set off in the rain with a brand new brake cable. The road was flat, the traffic was light, the rain quit by noon and the wind was at our back. Yesterday several motorists told us about a Japanese cycling family. Today we met them. A couple and their precocious 5 year old son have been on the road for 6 months from Mexico to Fairbanks. The boy jumped off his tag-along (wheel with pedals, towed behind Dad's bike) to introduce himself with high fives. Then he showed us his only toy, a bow made from a willow stick. He hopped back on his bike and waved goodbye as mom and dad pedaled off. We chose the Pine Valley RV Park, not because it was the only place to camp for 50 miles in any direction, but because it had a bakery. We each earned dessert for being such good sports about this morning's rain.

DAY 86: 8/17/02 PINE VALLEY to BURWASH LANDING / 53 mi / 1800' elev gain / N61:21.2' W139:0.3'

Before we left Pine Valley this morning, we stopped at Buckshot Betty's Bakery to buy a loaf of her raisin bread. Betty wasn't in but we knew the bread was fresh because the loaf was still warm from the oven. The baker warned us that the next 50 miles southbound would be gravel with much construction in progress. Oh well, There is nothing we can do about that. At 14 miles we crossed the Donjek River which originates at the Donjek Glacier in the Kluane Range. The Kluane (pronounced klooAWnee) Range is the eastern front of the St Elias Mountains. The road turned to extremely dusty loose gravel as we climbed steeply away from the river. We kept our heads down so our helmets would deflect rocks from passing vehicles. One of the vehicles was an ambulance and another was a RCMP car. Both had sirens going and lights flashing. A couple hours later we came upon the accident site. An SUV was in the ditch, backpacks and suitcases were strewn about, and the patrol officer was directing traffic. We were troubled as we wondered how many people's lives and plans had been changed in an instant. Later, at the Kluane Wilderness Gas Station we learned from the tow truck operator that 4 tourists from the lower 48 were returning home from a vacation in Alaska. They were in a hurry and lost control as the vehicle wandered into the loose gravel on the edge of the road. All 4 were hospitalized but thankfully none were killed. After passing the accident site most of the traffic slowed down.
We bumped and jiggled mile after mile as this major reconstruction of the Alaska Highway is an attempt to out smart the permafrost that continually creates havoc with the road bed. For us the gravel was a pleasant reminder of The Great Divide Ride we did 2 years ago. For motorists, who are used to traveling on the freeways of the lower 48, the road was a major annoyance. Eventually, we reached Burwash Landing on beautiful Lake Kluane, the largest lake in the Yukon. Camping is nice as we get a look at the fresh snow on the peaks of the Kluane Range.

DAY 87: 8/18/02 BURWASH LANDING to BEAR CREEK SUMMIT / 60 mi / 1800' elev gain / N60:54.4' W137:50.2'

Tick, Tick, Tick - Rain on the tent again this morning, but did we let it get us down? No sir! We attacked the day with optimism and promised 7 cyclists heading north that we would have sunshine by noon. It was still raining when we stopped for lunch along the shores of beautiful Lake Kluane. This 30 mile long lake was glacially formed and crystal clear. It was along this lake on Soldier's Summit that the Alaska Highway was dedicated in November 1942. This 1400 mile road was built with "bulldozers and the guts of men" in only 8 months and 12 days. The rain had stopped but the clouds hung low at noon when we arrived at the Sheep Mountain Visitors Center. Even the powerful spotting scopes couldn't penetrate the clouds to enable us to see the Dall Sheep that were hanging out at the top of the mountain. The sun was finally peaking through the clouds as we began the climb away from the lake to Bottllier Summit when we heard a familiar voice behind us. Michaël, our Belgian friend, caught up. We pedaled together until the construction pilot car split us up, but it wasn't long before we were all together again. We discussed camping options since there were no services between Burwash Landing and Haines Junction 85 miles away. Rita insisted on filtering water at Jarvis River and 2 miles farther down the road Michaël found a nice spot where the construction crew stored their explosives. Rita worried needlessly that the guys would disturb the explosives in the containers as they pitched the food on top of them for the night. The sky cleared, the mosquitoes came to life and we settled in for a cold night.

DAY 88: 8/19/02 BEAR CREEK SUMMIT to KATHLEEN LAKE / 35 mi / 1700' elev gain / N60:34.6' W137:12.3'

It was 36 degrees in the tent this morning and difficult to crawl out of our toasty sleeping bags. Everything was coated with ice when we stepped out into the sunshine. Ken and Michaël were kept awake by some critter that was screeching and growling in camp last night. They couldn't identify the sound, but both were too scared to get up to look. Rita slept through all the ruckus and didn't wake up until the construction crew started pitching boxes of explosives into their truck. We started out and agreed to meet Michaël 16 miles down the road at Haines Junction. While most of the way was downhill we were introduced to a headwind that was to give us a taste of more to come. Our food supply was very low and it had been days since we'd seen a laundry. It is not good to go to the grocery store when we are hungry, but there was no other way. As we entered the store we each grabbed a basket and headed in different directions for our favorite foods. Ken found 7 bananas for a dollar and Rita found a pint of strawberries. We both got our favorite sandwich fixings and headed out to the picnic table for lunch. With clean laundry and groceries packed we turned on the road to Haines. Our original plan was to continue on the Alaska Highway to Whitehorse and take the south Klondike road to Skagway, but the weather has been so unpredictable that we decided to take the shortest route to the ferry via Haines. We started to second guess our decision as the headwinds darn near blew us back down the hill we were climbing, but nobody complained, because it wasn't raining. Glacially fed Kathleen Lake is very picturesque surrounded by the Kluane Mountains. Fresh vegetables in our dinner provided a culinary delight as we celebrated Discovery Day, a territorial holiday for Yukoners.

DAY 89: 8/20/02 KATHLEEN LAKE to MILLION DOLLAR FALLS / 40mi / 1940' elev gain / N60:6.5' W136:56.6'

We said goodbye to Michaël this morning, since he wanted to complete the remaining 130 miles to Haines in 2 days. We plan to take 3 days. The wind generators used to supply energy for a horse ranch were very effective as the head wind persisted. Two cyclists from Juneau reminded us we were riding the route backwards as they headed north and we headed south. They also re-enforced our decision to camp at Million Dollar Falls even though it was a mile off route. Ken led the way on the hilly road and Rita hunkered down in his draft. We even fought the wind as we had to pedal downhill to the Takhanne River bridge We were surprised when Michaël stepped out of the trees. He said he had enough of the wind and was ready to make a free camp in the bushes by the river. Rita agreed with him, but Ken really wanted to check out the campground. So Rita and Michaël reluctantly followed Ken uphill and down the additional mile to the campground. Alas, Ken was right! The campground had a large cooking shelter with a wood stove and free firewood. We pitched the tents, Michaël took a nap and Rita built a roaring fire in the stove so Ken could cook dinner. Our party of three continued around the warmth of the stove when Michaël woke up. We are really enjoying the company of our Flemish speaking friend. Thankfully his English is better than our Flemish. Oh yeah, Million Dollar Falls is aptly named, but the roar of the falls was drowned out by the rain on the tent as we climbed in for the night.

DAY 90: 8/21/02 MILLION DOLLAR FALLS to CHILKAT CHARLIE'S CAMPGROUND / 64mi / 3200' elev gain / N59:25.5' W136:6.8'

It was not a good omen as we started the day packing up in the wind and rain. The uphill pull to get out of the campground was only the beginning. Ken took the lead and Rita tried to draft behind as the 30mph wind pushed us every way but forward. Michaël was still asleep in his tent. Those who seem to know say the wind almost always blows south to north across the top of Chilkat Pass from Haines to Haines Junction and today was no exception. We had taken our second Snickers break when Michaël passed us muttering some words that were decidedly not Flemish. He was not only fighting the wind, but his two favorite gears were not working properly. The hours wore on as climbed and the miles clicked off ever so slowly. We rode at 3000 feet of elevation, the same level as the clouds. Sometimes they'd spit rain and sometimes they didn't. At mile 25 we came upon a survival shelter, maintained by the Canadian Ministry of Highways. We weighed our options and decided we had to pull up our boot straps and continue on. Tomorrow's weather and the next day and the next weren't going to be better. Persistence does pay off and eventually we arrived at Chilkat Pass with one more down and up to Three Guardsmen Pass. The sign read "steep down grade next 18 kilometers." Joyfully, we bundled up to stay warm and took off. The stark scenery changed dramatically as we descended into The Tongass National Forest of tall cottonwoods, Sitka Spruce and Douglas Fir. After 10 hours of determination we arrived at the Canadian/US Border for one last crossing. After the usual questions at customs, Rita asked the agent if it was okay to kiss the ground. Our fears of not reaching the border before the 11PM closing time were unfounded. We ate another sandwich as we read the historical information about the entrepreneur/scoundrel, Jack Dalton. He finagled the map for the well guarded trade route of the Tlinget Indians from a chief and then created a toll road to "mine the miners" during the Klondike Gold Rush. The exact location of the Canadian/US border at Dalton's Cache was disputed as recently as the 1930's.
We continued to coast downhill until we reached 33 Mile Roadhouse, where we treated ourselves to a well deserved dinner. Just as we finished eating, in walked a freshly showered Michaël. He was all set up at Chilkat Charlie's Campground. We went to the pink house to pay Charlie, but Charlie turned out to be Everett. We scrambled to get the tent set up. You guessed it! It started to rain again, but hey - we got a hot shower.

DAY 91: 8/22/02 CHILKAT CHARLIE'S CAMPGROUND to HAINES / 34 miles / 600' elev gain / N59:14.2' W135:26.6'

Thirty-three Mile Roadhouse meant we were 33 miles from Haines. Ken reminded Rita we hadn't yet recovered from yesterday's fight with the wind as we tried to keep up up with Michaël on the flat road along the Chilkat River. So he rode ahead and we slowed to a more leisurely pace. We stopped often to look for the bald eagles, but it was too early for the chum salmon run when thousands of these majestic birds come this National Bald Eagle Preserve for a feeding frenzy. The natives' fishwheels and fishcamps were quiet in anticipation of the next run.
We pedaled in silence as we each reflected on the last 3 months and 4100 miles. Why did we choose to see Alaska on bicycles when we didn't go anywhere you couldn't take a motorhome? Rita wondered if Ken had fun and Ken wondered what kind of crazy idea Rita would dream up next. We decided it will take a long time to assimilate our experience of the Great North. We laid the bikes by the side of the road to read the grave markers in a cemetery overgrown with wild roses and devils club. Were the gold and riches these pioneers came for, but most likely didn't find, worth the hardships they endured? Back on the bikes and a mile from Haines we came upon a waiting Michaël. He was beginning to worry, because we were so slow. The three of us rode into town together and at the information center were directed to the Port Chilkoot Campground. This was perfect - showers, laundry, close to groceries, and the Chilkat Natives' Fast Ferry. We pitched the tents, Michaël went to the library for internet service and we bought the groceries and beverages for dinner. When we returned it was raining again so instead of cooking dinner we decided to nap until the sun came out. In August in Alaska that could be a very, very long time so when we woke up it was dark, it was still raining, we were hungry, and Michaël was cursing because his tent site had become a lake. After somehow convincing the campground manager to give him a shovel he began a ditch digging project. He soon created new rivers which were draining effectively into the Lynn Canal. Meanwhile Ken and Rita prepared a delicious dinner - salad and spaghetti with marinara sauce. In all the commotion we forgot to eat the garlic bread and were too full for the apple pie.
 

WEEK 1 WEEK 2 WEEK 3 WEEK 4 WEEK 5
WEEK 6 WEEK 7 WEEK 8 WEEK 9 WEEK 10
WEEK 11 WEEK 12 WEEK 13 WEEK 14 WEEK 15