DAY 92: 8/23/02 Rest day in HAINES / 0 miles!

Breakfast was toasted garlic bread, which we forgot to have with dinner last night, and apple pie, which we were too full to eat for dessert. Our bikes were left leaning against the picnic table all day. Not one pedal revolution was made as we took the Fast Ferry to Skagway. We had been warned that Skagway was like Disneyland and that the population increases by as many as 8000 when the cruise ships are in Port. But after spending a good part of our summer learning about the Klondike Gold Rush we had to go back to where the struggles started for most of the gold seekers - Skagway. It was just a 35 minute boat ride from the Lynn Canal at Haines to Taiya Inlet at Skagway. On the way we saw more glaciers of the Chilkat Mountains and magnificent waterfalls as well as a breaching humpback whale. Just as we climbed off the Fairweather Express at the docks in Skagway, a mass of humanity from the cruise ships was boarding the White Pass to Yukon narrow gauge train. This was good for us because the streets of the city were unusually quiet. Our first stop was at Pullen Creek, where we watched the dying salmon in their final struggle to return to their beginnings. In our quest to define the meaning of our journey, Ken pondered, "Is this what our trip was all about? Swim upstream like crazy and then you die?" No! The role of salmon in our ecosystem is far too important to be defined so crassly. As we began our stroll past the souvenir shops we came upon the old rail depot which is now the National Park Service Information Center. We watched an excellent film, narrated by Hal Holbrook. Then Jason, a Ranger, convinced us to sign up for his walking tour at 2PM. That gave us just enough time to get a double scoop ice cream so we'd have enough energy to walk. On the tour Jason, from Tacoma, told us about the geology of Skagway, the famed Chilkoot Trail, Soapy Smith, The Red Onion Saloon and Bordello, and the visionary Moore family. Upon our return to the visitor center, Ranger Polly presented a slide show accompanied with her guitar and songs of the era. She sang about the hopes, the challenges, the struggles and triumphs of the gold rushers. Most never struck it rich or were even able to stake a gold claim, but they all considered the experience a defining moment in their lives. So why did they leave the lower 48 to go to the Klondike? "They went just to see if they could do it." In the darkness of the theater Ken looked at Rita and Rita looked at Ken. We smiled at each other because now we had our answer. We bicycled to Alaska just to see if we could. We finished our day in Skagway with a beer at the Red Onion Saloon in anticipation of the final leg of journey, the ferry ride to Bellingham. The day ended with the Fast Ferry back to Haines and a stroll through the grounds of old Fort Seward, the first US Military Fort in Alaska. Michaël prepared a dinner of veggie omelets, garlic bread, which we remembered to eat, and cheesecake. This will be our last night together for sure. We are departing for Juneau on the ferry and he is going to continue cycling to Prince Rupert. We have become fast friends.

DAY 93: 8/24/02 HAINES to AUKE BAY by Fast Ferry / 2 miles on bike from terminal

Our final meal with Michaël was a breakfast of Cheesecake and hot cocoa. This would be our final farewell. Michaël was going to Skagway, up White Pass, Alaska Highway to Cassiar Hwy and Prince Rupert. He would finish his trip on the ferry to Port Hardy and spend September/October cycling Vancouver Island. We, on the other hand, got on the Fast Ferry to Juneau at 9 for the 2 1/2 hour trip. When our captain spotted a cow moose and her calf on an island, she turned the boat around for a better look. We watched as mom and baby swam the salt water between two small islands. Countless bald eagles were perched in the trees along our route south through Lynn Canal. The humpback whales and Dall porpoises played beside the boat. The weather deteriorated and by the time we docked in Auke Bay, 14 miles north of downtown Juneau, it was pouring rain. We stepped into the Harbor master's office to ask about nearby campgrounds and were given a couple of options. The first one we called said we were out of luck because of the Great North Fishing Derby. Our second call put us in touch with Vivian, owner of Auke Bay RV and Campground. Ken inquired about a tent site, showers and laundry. Vivian replied that she usually doesn't take tenters because they are too rowdy. Ken explained diplomatically that we were old, on bicycles and that the only noise he would make might be some occasional snoring. Vivian's place was perfect. We were only 2 miles from the ferry terminal, on the bus line to downtown, and within riding distance of the glacier. When we pulled into the driveway of the campground, white-haired Vivian stepped out of her cabin to greet us. Her Pomeranian, Precious, nipped at our heels. She walked us to a spot with a picnic table under a huge Sitka Spruce. We looked at the high flat spot to pitch the tent and said, "We'll take it." After we registered in Vivian's office, Vivian did not mind telling us she was 80 years old. She moved to Alaska as a bride in 1946. When her marriage ended in divorce in 1954 she went to work at the Capitol and bought her old cabin and acreage out in the woods along Auke Bay. Her campground business started when a friend asked if he could park his rig on her property for a couple weeks one summer. This colorful lady would take care of us for our 3 day stay in Juneau for sure.

DAY 94: 8/25/02 AUKE BAY to JUNEAU and back / 14 miles by city bus

We are becoming one with the rain. It persisted through the night and as we ate breakfast under a huge Sitka Spruce at our tent site. Of course it's easier if we don't have to break camp and ride the bikes so today we took the city bus downtown and created our own walking tour. We started at the Capitol Building, which was closed, then walked past St. Nick's Russian Orthodox which was next door to St. Mary's Roman Catholic Cathedral. The Juneau Cathedral is the smallest Cathedral building in the United States. The small church was full but the people were extremely friendly at coffee and donuts after Mass. The City Museum was only a block from the churches. We watched a video on how Joe Juneau and Dick Harris discovered gold in the 1880's, well before the Klondike Rush of 1898. At the Alaska State Museum the entire first floor is dedicated to the state's native cultures in addition to impressive natural history, state history, fine art and children's exhibits.
We wanted to have a beer at the Red Dog Saloon before the last bus at 6PM. So we walked through the swinging doors and onto the sawdust floor. We were surrounded by cruise ship tourists from most every state in the lower 48. When we left The Red Dog we still had time so we asked a local person where she goes for a beer. She escorted us to The Hangar (On The Wharf), a much quieter place with local flavor. Then it was time to catch the bus. We met several tourists who were using public transportation to design their own itineraries as well as local people who were on their way home from work after spending their Sunday serving tourists. We arrived back at the campground and walked a couple blocks to Chan's Thai Restaurant upon the recommendation of Vivian, the owner of our campground. Vivian did not steer us wrong. The spring rolls and Basil Chicken under a dry roof were a perfect way to end the day.

DAY 95: 8/26/02 AUKE BAY to MENDENHALL GLACIER and back / 16 miles

We got up early so we could be at the ferry terminal when it opened. Purchasing our tickets for the Alaska Marine Highway from Juneau to Bellingham was simple. Getting packed in the rain and getting to the terminal in the dark at 5:15 AM tomorrow will be a bit more troublesome. We had few worries today though as we bundled up in our funny looking rain gear and pedaled to the Mendenhall Glacier Visitors Center. The Rangers filled us in on more global warming issues as the Mendenhall is another Glacier that is retreating about 100 feet per year. Young seasonal rangers often have lots of questions about our Alaskan outdoor adventure, but we are equally interested in their lives - their college degrees, various summer jobs, their home towns, why they wanted to come to Alaska, and what their dream job would be. We have really enjoyed meeting so many young adults who hold so much promise for our nation's future. After peering at the crevasses in the glacier, and unsuccessfully hoping a chunk of ice would calve off into Mendenhall Lake, we pedaled to Safeway to replenish our food stores for the 3 1/2 day ferry ride. We will be roughing it on the ferry - just as we've done all summer. We won't be sleeping in a cabin but hope to pitch our tent on the deck with all the other vagabonds. Some meals will be eaten in the dining room or snack bar but most will be food we carry on board with us. We spent the remainder of the day in the laundromat, not only to escape the rain but to actually wash clothes. We want to smell good when get on the boat.

DAY 96: 8/27/02 AUKE BAY TO SITKA by ferry / 2 miles on bike to terminal

Neither one of us could get back to sleep when we woke at 3:30 this morning. It had rained hard all night and our minds were occupied with organizing our wet gear. What stuff would we need on the boat and what stuff should stay packed on the bikes down below in the car deck? Would we ever dry out? All the dry stuff we would need on the boat, clothes and sleeping bags went into a giant trash bag. Rita exited the tent with the big bag and ran through the rain for the laundry. Then Ken brought our wet, filthy bikes into the small building while he hung the tent fly on the shower rod. Rita organized, packed, unpacked and repacked until everything was in the right place. The next task was to clean the mud and debris from Vivian's spotless facility. Roger and Pearl, our camping neighbors, from Williston, ND, came into the building to use the bathroom just as we finished cleaning our mess. They were up early to catch the ferry to Bellingham as well. We donned our rain gear and extra lights and reflectors to splash along the dark, busy road to the terminal. It was finally our turn to board the MV Columbia. The deck hand told us where to park the bikes and how to tie them to the railing so they wouldn't get tossed around if the seas got rough. After the bikes were secure we lugged our bags up several flights of stairs to the Solarium. There were already 4 tents pitched on the wet deck, which were anchored with coolers, bungees and rocks. Other passengers were amused as we "discussed" the best place to pitch our wet tent. The deck was too wet to anchor it with duct tape, so Ken went back down the ramp to find some rocks. With the tent pitched we settled into a couple chaise recliners as the boat pushed off. We kept an eye on the tents as the wind began to test the anchors. Ours seemed to be quite resilient. We saw a couple "sucker holes" (small patches of blue sky in the clouds) and hoped the floor of the tent would dry out before nightfall. Periodically throughout the day National Forest Service Ranger, Wayne Ward told us about Southeast Alaska; marine mammals; Sitka, the Russian America Capital; the Norwegian fishing settlement of Petersburg; and the perils of the Inside Passage. We were sure the peril of the Inside Passage was the rain because by the time we reached Sitka it was raining again.
Since we booked passage straight through from Juneau to Bellingham, we could only get off the MV Columbia for as long as she would be in port. The ferry terminal was 7 miles from downtown Sitka and we would be in port 3 hours. The Sitka Chamber of Commerce provides shuttle bus and tour bus service from the terminal to the city center. We opted for the shuttle and created our own walking tour. Our first stop was the Russian Orthodox Church right smack in the middle of Main Street. Then we strolled past the souvenir shops into Old Ernie's Bar. It was primary election day in Alaska and Rita wanted to hear how the locals felt about the issues and candidates. Well, the locals at Ernie's didn't have much interest in statewide politics. Two guys were talking about fishing and the other guy was reading the funny page in the newspaper. Since we didn't get any update on the news, Ken found a machine which had the Anchorage Paper. As he was digging for a dollar, an enterprising native lad runs up with a stack of Sitka Daily Papers. He said his paper only cost 50 cents. Ken couldn't pass up a deal and bought the paper. We took our Sitka guide book and began the walk to Castle Hill, Totem Park, the Tlinget Cultural Center. We learned how the Tlinget People resisted Russian settlement for many years, how the Russians were more than happy to dump Alaska on the United States (Seward's Folly of 1867) when the sea otter population was diminished, and how Juneau took the distinction of the "Capital of Alaska" from Sitka when Juneau's Gold Mines became profitable. Back on the Columbia, Ranger Wayne told us what to expect during our night voyage. Then we went back to the Solarium to check on the tent. It was pouring rain and the wind had really kicked up as returned through Peril Strait. The tent did not look like a cozy place to spend the night. Ours was the last tent standing but we took it down. With our sleeping pads and sleeping bags we curled up in our chaise deck chairs under the heated roof of the solarium.

DAY 97: 8/28/02 SITKA to PETERSBURG, WRANGELL and KETCHIKAN by ferry

Last night Ranger Wayne gave us the lowdown on our next stop, Petersburg. We would be arriving at this port at 4:30 in the morning. Our stop would be just long enough to unload and load. Rita, not wanting to miss any part of this voyage, woke Ken at 4. We bundled up and went out on the deck to watch the boat carefully navigate narrow channels between small islands and see how the captain gently brought the vessel to the dock. The only other passengers who were awake were those who were disembarking and those with pets. Pet owners could get their pets from the car deck, take them for a quick stroll around the ferry terminal, put the baggy of doggy doo in the dumpster and reboard. In the dim light of early dawn, we tried to see the neat rows of houses with colorful rosemaling paintings, but we could only see the shapes of the roofs. The literature talked about Peter Buschmann, the Norwegian who after many attempts along the length of the inside passage, finally found success with his fishing and cannery business at this location in 1897. He wrote home to all his friends in Norway and convinced them to come to Petersburg. Despite the ups and downs of the industry, Petersburg has remained primarily a fishing village and cannery. As soon as everyone was on board, the Columbia continued southward through the Wrangell Narrows. With the green buoys on port side and the red on starboard we watched the wake of the ship snake between small islands we could almost reach out and touch. So far there have only been two 45 minute sections of open water where we have felt the "ocean motion". Our bicycle butts have enjoyed the rest and we are quickly developing sea legs. Ranger Wayne shared stories of interesting and inventive ways Southeast Alaskans supplement their seasonal incomes. We also learned about the ice age formation of the inside passage and watched a beatiful video of the Aurora Borealis produced by researchers at the University of Alaska Fairbanks. There was no chance for us to see the Aurora during our few weeks in the land of midnight sun. Our time off the ship at Ketchikan was cut short because of delays earlier in the day. It seems a gentleman didn't hear the purser's strong reminder to not dally in the port of Wrangell. Just as the ramp was cranked up and the doors of the ship slammed shut, this tardy fellow came running down the ramp, waving his arms and begging to be allowed on the boat. The deck crew received the okay from the captain and the ramp was lowered and doors opened to allow this embarrassed fellow to to reboard. The whole process put us behind schedule by almost an hour. Dinner at sunset in the ship's dining room with white linens and red wine was a nice way to celebrate our Alaskan adventure coming to an end. After 40 hours of sailing we are so relaxed and so appreciative of the solarium roof over our heads, we are wishing we could sail around the world.

DAY 98: 8/29/02 between KETCHIKAN AK and BELLINGHAM WA by ferry

Ketchikan, last night, was the last port of call before we arrive in Bellingham 37 hours later. This day was one of total serenity - from the fog horn of the early morning to the sun burning through the misty skies to reveal our first blue in weeks. Passengers from the lower decks climbed the stairs to share the solarium deck with us. The young guys shed their shirts as they warmed up during a vigorous demonstration of hackysack skills. Conversations were struck between strangers and barriers were broken between the classes and generations. Everyone enjoyed sharing the magic and joy that a sunny day can bring. People were trying to capture images of the breaching orcas with their cameras. Ken reminded Rita, who only has half a roll of film to finish the trip, that the best pictures are the ones we take home in our hearts. We hurried through the showers so we wouldn't miss Ranger Wayne's morning talks about the humpback and orca whales. Crossing open seas this afternoon to enter Queen Charlotte Sound lasted about 2 hours. Our sea legs are so adept we walked from deck to deck to get the best views. Ken kept a navigational eye on the captain's route with his GPS. He is starting to smell the barn and wants to make sure we don't take a wrong turn. This afternoon we learned how the Alaska/British Columbia borders were established and why much of BC's coastline ended up as Southeast Alaska. We should appreciate Juneau as our 49th state's Capital. This could all change and school children will have to learn how to spell Mat-Su. In November Alaskans will vote YES or NO to allocate the funds to relocate the legislature to the Borough of Mat-Su. That means close to Anchorage.
The most dangerous navigational hazard of the Inside Passage "Ripple Rock" was blasted from Seymore Narrows in 1958. The old film footage held us spellbound because we had no idea this hazard ever existed or the scope and ramifications of this engineering feat. We skipped the long lines to the buffet in the dining room and ate the remainder of our groceries: cheese, cup of soup, bread with fruit for dessert. After the last ray of sunset and the skies turned dark we headed to the ship's bar for the first time. If there was a party for our last night on board, Rita didn't want to miss it. Unfortunately, there were only a few groups of people sitting quietly in their distant dark corners. After a beer we left and went back to our home for the last 3 days, the solarium deck. We dragged our chaise lounges out from under the protection of the roof. Curled up in the warmth of our sleeping bags we gazed at shooting stars until we both fell asleep.